Allan Stephenson

Allan Stephenson's Travel Notes

A travel journal just for friends who may be interested in our travels.

TRAVEL NOTES
"Only travellers ever truly possess a place; the inhabitants are possessed by it."Phil Maillard

AMSTERDAM

March 4, 2014 by Allan Stephenson

HOLLAND is not the country but a region of The Netherlands.

It is the region that Amsterdam is in and stretches northward along the coast. Our host Kess took us for a drive one misty moisty perfectly Dutch day.

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Below- Holland is famous for it’s bulbs. Here an Alium field.

1727Below- Near Aaltmark the next town north from Amsterdam, is Bergen which is a picture perfect little village set in the woods near the sea. Some delightful cottages.

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Below-The North Sea from Bergen en Zee with the Sun setting at almost ten pm in the evening.

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Below-About 20% of The Netherlands is under sea level and this poster reminds us that this area sits some 4.5 metres (15 feet) under sea level and that the local utility company keeps it dry enough for the farmer.
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AMSTERDAM 

Amsterdam is a picture perfect city that is on a very human scale.

One can walk around most of the centre easily in a day.

We certainly did do that from early in the morning until late at night.
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We went to see an old friend from the sixties when I first visited the city. Kees (above) and his wife Ania who live in a canal house right near the centre. Our host  was born and raised in Amsterdam so gave us an expert guided tour with stories at every corner.
Below-the view from their kitchen window into a sanctuary for birds.1687
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The house was built in 1730 and they have lovingly restored it from the support timbers under the house that go in the bog- all the way up to the roof via these steep stairs.
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The bicycle is famously ubiquitous in Amsterdam. Near the train station giant are bicycle (not car) parks.
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The Beginhof (below) dates from 1346 and was designed as a cloister for “pious” women. An option for women who did not want married life but also did not want to be in a convent.
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1681Synonymous with Amsterdam are “coffee shops”- where no coffee is drunk.
They are indeed ubiquitous but the smoking isn’t everywhere on the streets. It is frowned upon in fact.
It seemed to me smoking was confined only to those places of purveyance.
The slippery slope to national overall decadence seems to have not happened.
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 Often seen on buildings are these painted plaques.
Above-This one- “All blessings come from above-(for) The Farmer”
Below says…”Saint Peter’s little boat may tilt”.
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Below- “In the courtyard- a peddler”
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THE THEATRE TUSCHKINSKY

Built 1919-21 in Dutch School Jungenstill or Art Nouveau it is considered as one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world.

The builder was Abraham Icek Tuschinski and was of Polish Jewish descent. He found success as a movie theatre owner opening lavish cinemas around The Netherlands in the teens and twenties.
This building was his crowning achievement and was way ahead of it’s time.
It cost 4 million guilders, using according to his own words the best people, best ideas and best materials he could get. When the Second World War broke out Tuschinski lost all his cinemas and he was transported to a concentration camp and from there to Auschwitz where he died.

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The lobby was designed in such a way as to offer theatergoers the feeling that they are stepping into an illusion.
1704 Photo via Wikipedia

In 1984 the whole carpet was remade using the original thread in Morocco. It was 50 m long and had to be flown in one piece to Amsterdam by a KLM plane. KLM covered the cost of this at more than $ 100.000.
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The light was not good enough inside to get any great shots but you can see that every surface had been crafted with utmost care.
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The RijksMuseum 
It houses the best of Dutch painting and art objects including Rembrandt, Vermeer and Hals.
Originally opened in 1885 and was closed for renovation from 2003 to 2013. The renovation cost almost 490 million dollars.
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 The building itself is a work of art.  1696
Rembrandt of course is the big name in the gallery.
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Below-Rembrandt’s major opponent in the highly profitable field of portrait painting was Bartholomeus van der Helst.
Below-His portrait of Gerard Bicker c 1639
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Below-Some of the paintings I particularly liked.
The Threatened Swan
by Jan Asselyn in about 1652
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Girl Holding a Basket with Plums- by Cesar Van Everdingen c 1645
1714Young Woman Warming Her Hands-
by Cesar Van Everdingen c 1650
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 Below A stairwell in the Museum.
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