Allan Stephenson

Allan Stephenson's Travel Notes

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TRAVEL NOTES
"Only travellers ever truly possess a place; the inhabitants are possessed by it."Phil Maillard

MEXICO CITY 5

January 10, 2018 by Allan Stephenson

“Who needs feet when I have wings to fly”

Frida Kahlo

Above photograph of Frida was by her friend Nikolas Muray

The Blue House or Casa Azul as it is known because of it’s cobalt blue walls. It was her childhood home and was not originally that color. It was built in a French style and only later when she inherited it did she make changes to the style and the color.

Above-Her parents and below a portrait of her Father.

 

Below her bed with the mirror she used for self portraits.

 

Above the kitchen.

Above and below- The studio

 

 

Above and Below -some of the clothes in the museum that belonged to her.

Above– the view up at the sky from the garden.

Below– “The place of wolves” or Coyuacan is where Fridas house and Museum is located. Now a suburb of Mexico City it was once a distant village on the southern shore of the great lake ( Lake Texcoco) that existed in pre hispanic times. During and after the conquest it was Spain’s headquarters for several years and some of the oldest Spanish buildings still standing in Mexico are located here. The city was independent until well into the mid-20th century, when it was subsumed into Mexico City.

The area was always a haven for the bohemian set. Writers and artists chose to live there and still do. Leon Trotsky on the run from Stalin lived (and died) here too.

In nearby San Angel another old village is the studio and home of Diego Rivera which he shared for a time with Frida.The two houses were famously connected by a bridge.

Above a model of the houses. There is a third one behind these two of the architect Juan O Gorman.

 

Juan O’Gorman was born in Coyoacán to an Irish immigrant father (a painter himself) and a Mexican mother. He became a well known architect and introduced modern functionalist architecture to Mexico.

 An important early commission was for a house and studio for painters Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo- built in 1931-32, with its symbolic bridge.
Above a painting by Rivera in his studio.  The chair is still there and these large puppets still hang.
Below– O Gormans house and studio.
These houses and studio were built in the  San Angel neighborhood which was at the time a distinct rural village separate from the City.  Across the street from Riveras studio is The San Angel Inn which is the former Hacienda de Goicoechea an 18th century plantation. It was where Pancho Villa and Emillio Zapata agreed to divide control of the country in 1914. Now a very upscale restaurant and inn.
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